8 Responses to “Sunforce 22005 12-Volt MotoMaster Eliminator Folding Solar Panel”

1. C. Tripp says:

   August 31, 2008 at 8:39 am

   Review by C. Tripp for Sunforce 22005 12-Volt MotoMaster Eliminator Folding Solar Panel
   Rating:
   This baby charges up the 8 volt battery in my 1949 international tractor
   
   parked out in the orchard quite well. I even ran over it with an empty trailer, and left it out in the rain! I can use large metal spring clamps to hang it anywhere to catch the afternoon sun. Haven’t tried it camping yet.
2. Joey Rush says:

   August 31, 2008 at 8:54 am

   Review by Joey Rush for Sunforce 22005 12-Volt MotoMaster Eliminator Folding Solar Panel
   Rating:
   I often go Gold & Gemstone hunting and use quite a bit of 12volt equipment, including a forgotten 12v cooler plugged into the dash. Upon leaving the car for a day to prospect a small stream, the cooler drained our battery dead. We returned with only about 2 hours of daylight left, found the battery dead and I immediately removed the charger from my backpack and began charging the battery with direct sunlight. As the sun was setting we “tried it” and there was just enough charge to start us up and we drove the 12 miles out of the forest instead of having to walk it out for help.
   
   Not only does the product work, but it has changed the way I think about solar energy. Needless to say, since it saved us that day in the forest, I am rating this product with 5 stars.
3. J. tudor says:

   August 31, 2008 at 9:36 am

   Review by J. tudor for Sunforce 22005 12-Volt MotoMaster Eliminator Folding Solar Panel
   Rating:
   I finally got to try this thing out after having it for two months.
   
   Hiked four miles into a lake using my new PN-40se gps, spent the night and the next morning I plugged the gps in to charge it, everything looked to be going well so I let it charge for about 15 minutes and re-checked it only to find the screen blank (as it was on when I started) so I unplugged and tried to turn it on, and nothing. Very unhappy!.
   
   When I got back to the truck I found the gps still worked if I put regular battery’s in it, so it ruined my brand new rechargeable batts.
   
   Be warned (check it out before you go!)
4. Andy Baird says:

   August 31, 2008 at 9:49 am

   Review by Andy Baird for Sunforce 60032 30 Amp Digital Charge Controller
   Rating:
   The Sunforce #60032 controller is a decent product at a reasonable price. Unfortunately, it doesn’t include maximum power point tracking (MPPT) technology, so it wastes about 15-25% of the incoming power, especially at times of low solar input (which of course is when you need it most). To be fair, no charging controller that I know of in the under-$100 price range has MPPT, so I’m not knocking the #60032′s value-just pointing out that if you’re planning on spending the money for hundreds or thousands of watts of panels (like one recent reviewer), it probably makes sense to spend another hundred bucks and get an MPPT controller (e.g., Blue Sky or Heliotrope models) that can milk the maximum power from that expensive array… instead of throwing away part of it, as this unit does.
5. Tim G says:

   August 31, 2008 at 10:11 am

   Review by Tim G for Sunforce 60032 30 Amp Digital Charge Controller
   Rating:
   When I hocked this up I instantly started ruining some tests to see exactly how well it works and after some tweaks I can tell you I am very happy and recommend this to any one that wants to keep there battery’s healthy.
   
   This thing will automatically throttle up and down the current to any battery to keep the voltage exactly were it belongs. The only had 3 problems with mine.
   
   1. The voltage meter was off by +.2 volts!
   
   2. The amp meter was off by -600ma!
   
   3. This is not a mppt controller and wastes about 1 amp in my set up but for the price that is not bad.
   
   Both points 1 and 2 were easily fixed by tweaking 2 pot’s inside that are very easy to get to.
   
6. HMMWV says:

   August 31, 2008 at 10:11 am

   Review by HMMWV for Sunforce 60032 30 Amp Digital Charge Controller
   Rating:
   If you’ve read the reviews, by now the acronym MPPT has shown up more than once. If you know what that means, read no further as this is not too entertaining. If you would like to know the difference in MPPT and non-MPPT solar regulators, and can tolerate some basic math or skim through it, read on and I can explain why this non-MPPT regulator will do the job, just not the BEST job possible.

   MPPT stands for Maximum Power Point Tracking, which sounds like a good thing, and it definitly is a must for large house size systems, but what exactly is it? Simply put MPPT finds YOUR solar array’s Maximum amount of power for a given condition (full sun/overcast/panel tilt). It is always searching for the best voltage and current conditions to maximize power from the panels.

   Let’s explore how MPPT works. Normal power regulators like this one interface between the solar panel array and the storage battery. When the battery is full, they quit charging to protect the battery from boiling the electrolyte away. Pretty simple. But what if you need more power from your solar panels than the simple case? It turns out that MPPT can, using more electronics, harness more power from your solar arrays than a simple on/off charge regulator. How? by using a small IC chip that searches for the highest POWER from the panel, hence the name maximum power point tracking. The tracking just means that as the sunlight changes, so does the maximum power location.

   Unfortunately Solar Panels are not just a source of simple DC power - that is they don’t behave like a battery does. The fewer amps you draw from the panel, the higher the panel’s voltage across the wires becomes. This is where most MPPT discussions end but with a couple simple equations (ohm’s law) we can dive deeper into what MPPT does and why its good (and costs more).

   Ohms law is really simple: there are two parts: Voltage = Current times Resistance (V=I x R)
   
   Of course we can re-arrange it other ways: R = I/V, I = V/R Where I is in amps, V in volts, R in ohms. If we connect a 1 ohm (R) resistor across a 12V battery (V) then solving for I must be 12 AMPs flowing through the resistor.

   For POWER (one P in MPPT) we need to know another simple equation Power = Volts x Amps (DC version)
   
   In the above example, the resistor is most likely a power resistor (i.e. big) because 12 volts x 12 amps = 144 watts which gets hot real fast. In this case, the 144 watts is a power point from a battery. They are simple since small currents do not make large swings on the battery voltage and we can assume it to be nearly constant when using large storage batteries.

   Finally we need to know a little about DC to DC converters, as they are the logic controlled core of the MPPT solar battery charger. True they don’t convert DC directly to another DC voltage, but they are pretty efficient (97%+) by taking an input DC POWER, making a AC voltage from it much like an inverter would, then converting that AC back to DC again for their output to the battery. And they may alter the battery voltage depending on temperature for optimal charging or even change the voltage depending on how many cells you choose to make a battery array (e.g. 12V, 24V, 48V etc). They are flexible and always seek to get as much power from your solar array as possible and put as much power in your batteries until they are full. Some models take the remaining power from your array and produce AC to be sold back to the utility company, but not all have this feature. Big Solar systems can use 6000 watt DC/DC converters that have a 240 Volt AC output as well. They are not small or cheap but they do work.

   How does MPPT work? Shine a constant amount of light on a solar panel so that it’s output can be characterized. A “12V” panel isn’t really 12.000 Volts. It may be 16-19 Volts if you put a digital voltmeter across its output terminals. This is known as it’s Voc or Voltage, open circuit meaning zero current flows because the circuit is open. The compliment to Voc is Isc which stands for Current (I) short circuit. Very few devices can have the Isc measured directly, but for small (60W give or take panels) it is safe to put an ampmeter across the same two wires from the panel and know how many amps flow when the voltage is zero (it’s zero because you shorted the wires with the ampmeter - the definition of zero volts is a short circuit) If you were to plot on the X axis of a graph voltage, from the two endpoints, 0 and Voc (say it’s 19V) and on the Y axis you plot the multiplication of amps times voltage, which we know to be power, you will find a curve with a peak. The MPPT seeks to operate your solar array at that peak. Without MPPT, the voltage is more a function of the battery’s state of charge (from 11-13.8V) and the current that flows is on the graph of your panel’s power function for a given voltage.

   A 16V, 30 watt panel might give you 33 watts at a particular voltage, or an extra 10% using MPPT. In other installations, wiring your panels in series for higher voltages may be where the maximum power is found. The chip inside the MPPT tracker searches for this peak in your system and operates the solar panel (or array of panels) at it’s absolute maximum power, which is sent to the DC/DC converter to charge your batteries.

   We might get 10-30% more power doing this, but the voltage will be all wrong for charging our battery, or our battery array. And that’s where the DC/DC converter steps in. As a simple example, say you find that 2 panels in parallel give you 14.5V at 1.9A going through your non-MPPT charge controller, or 27.5W delivered to your batteries. Wired in series using MPPT they give you 37V at 1.25A or ~48W. You would get more power by wiring in series for a higher solar voltage of 37V, which is too high to charge a 12V lead acid storage battery. Now you need a MPPT.

   The MPPT takes the 37V, 1.25A from your panels and gets ~48W, looses 2W in conversion inefficiencies(give or take) for 46W out, and converts it to 13.6V to charge your battery array at 3.38A whereas had you wired the two panels in parallel you would get about 27.5 watts in this illustration.

   MPPT systems are found in high voltage solar arrays (100V+) because the peak power points in these systems are up high in voltage and low in current.

   To sum it all up -

   For really small solar panels, (1w) and big batteries (100 AH) you really don’t need a charge controller just a diode to prevent backflow when the sun is down. Car battery mainters are made this way.

   As you increase power and run the risk of overcharge, some controller is needed. The cheapest is like the one sold here - the non-mppt which works well with solar panels that are close to the battery voltage.

   And finally as you cover your house with solar panels, MPPT systems sqeeze every last drop of power so long as you operate them within their specified parameters (often limits on voltage and current comming in or watts converted) Outback is a major MPPT converter which can handle a wide range of input voltages and run a grid-tie system. As for 4 stars - you can buy MPPT trackers for $112 now.
7. Joe Abrahamson says:

   August 31, 2008 at 10:54 am

   Review by Joe Abrahamson for Sunforce 60032 30 Amp Digital Charge Controller
   Rating:
   Bought this controller from Amazon and really liked it at first. In fact I still like it but am having to return it.

   The controller works great and is a lot better than the previous model I had on the solar panels.

   Problem is that the voltage display on the unit is not working right. I have 3 80 watt GE solar panels hooked up to this controller. They put out about 22 vdc to the charge controller, which is then regulated by the controller going to the batteries at anywhere from 12-14 vdc.

   Hooked the controller up and it was fine for the first hour or two. Then checked the voltage display and it was reading 20 vdc! If it was really at this level, it would overcharge my 12 volt batteries and ruin them very fast. Checked the actual output with a digital volt meter and it was actually at 13.7, which is normal. Tried a second meter and got the same reading.

   End of the story is that the new controller works great, but the meter on the front of the unit that tells you what the meter is putting out to the batteries is defective 1-2 hours after being hooked up. Its going back and will be getting a better controller and hope it works better and for a longer time. Amazon was very easy to work with but hope that they get things like this fixed.
8. Amazon_Junkie says:

   August 31, 2008 at 10:59 am

   Review by Amazon_Junkie for Sunforce 60032 30 Amp Digital Charge Controller
   Rating:
   This Solar Array -to- Battery Array charge controller has worked 24/7 continously for me for almost two years.
   
   Yea it’s not the most efficient set-up, however the status display is great and the Golfcart batteries do not complain.
   
   Remember to put a 30A Slow-Blow fuse on the input.